Homeowners usually ask what a kitchen costs per square foot. It is the wrong unit. Two kitchens of identical size can land far apart on price because of a handful of specific decisions, and knowing which ones they are lets you spend where it shows and save where it does not.
The first is whether anything moves. Keeping the sink, range and refrigerator roughly where they are means the plumbing, gas and major electrical stay put, and a large slice of the budget never gets spent. Moving the sink to an island means new supply, drain and vent runs, which on a slab foundation means cutting concrete. That single decision can swing a project by five figures.
The second is cabinetry, which is almost always the largest line item. Stock, semi-custom and full-custom are three genuinely different products with different lead times, and lead time matters as much as price, because cabinets arriving late stall every trade behind them.
The third is what is already behind the walls. In houses built before the mid-1970s we routinely find wiring with no ground, undersized panels, and drain lines that have to be replaced once they are exposed. This work is not optional, and a good estimate flags it as a likely cost before you commit rather than as a change order in week three.
Counters, tile and fixtures are the fourth, and they are the most flexible. There is a wide quality range at every price point, and a well-installed mid-range material generally looks better than a premium one installed in a hurry.
The fifth is scheduling. A kitchen that is fully planned before demolition, with materials ordered and the counter template booked, costs less than the same kitchen improvised week to week, because nobody is paying for a crew to stand around waiting on a delivery. Ask for an itemized estimate rather than a lump sum, and you will be able to see all five of these decisions on paper.